Krakow

Krakow 22 Sept 2007.  At Wawel Royal Castle and Cathedral

On 22 Sept 2007 we visited parts of the historical centre of Krakow, starting with Wawel Castle and the Cathedral next to it.  As Archbishop of Krakow from 1964-1968 this was Karol Wojtyla's Cathedral, and it therefore had a particular connection to him.

Wawel Castle and Cathedral

Ali especially liked the castle courtyard

Karol Wojtyla was ordained priest on 1st November 1946.  As the next day was All Souls Day, when priests are allowed to say three Masses,  he had the unusual privilege of being able to say three "first Masses" which were said at a remarkably simple altar in the Cathedral crypt of St Leonard.

The altar where Karol Wojytla celebrated his first Masses in the Crypt of St Leonard.

In the centre of the city we passed the Archbishop's residence at 3 Franciszkanska Street.  During his returns to Krakow as Pope, John Paul II stayed here, and multitudes of young people would gather outside each night singing and calling to him.  He would join them at the window above the main entrance, and when we were there in 2007 there was (and still is, I think, to this day) a life size picture of John Paul II at the window, as though he were continuing to impart his blessing on those who pass by.

The residence of the Archbishop of Krakow at 3 Franciszkanska Street

Karol Wojtyla had lived here not only while he was Archbishop of Krakow, but also for part of his seminarian studies during the Second World War.  It was here in the  private chapel of the Cardinal-Archbishop that he was ordained a priest.

Wondering whether it might be possible for us to see inside, I thought that the only way to find out was to try!  We walked into the courtyard where there was a display about the life of John Paul II.  Few people were there.  As we finished looking at the display a priest passed by who, thankfully, spoke English so I could ask whether it might be possible to visit the Cardinal-Archbishop's private chapel.  He was, in fact, the Cardinal's secretary and said he would find out.

The courtyard of the Archbishop's residence

At that time the Archbishop of Krakow was Cardinal Stanislaw Dziwisz.  Just three years after his ordination as a priest, he had been appointed private secretary to Archbishop Karol Wojtyla in 1966,  and, moving in due course to Rome, continued as private secretary for the next 39 years until the death of Pope John Paul II in 2005. Pope Benedict XVI subsequently appointed him Archbishop of Krakow and Cardinal.

The Cardinal's secretary mentioned that the Cardinal was due to be leaving the residence in about 10 minutes and directed us to an area where we could meet him as he left.  This was wholly unexpected. Cardinal Dziwisz stopped to speak with us for a few minutes and gave us his blessing. There was nobody else around except staff accompanying him.  It was as privileged a meeting as it was unexpected.  Ali was very taken with Cardinal Dziwisz, finding him very calm, peaceful and humble.

Ali greets Cardinal Stanislaw Dziwisz

Cardinal Dziwisz gives Ali a blessing.

As he left with the Cardinal, his secretary told us that he had arranged for us to visit the private chapel, which was another unexpected bonus - to see where Karol Wojtyla had been ordained priest and where, as Archbishop, he often locked himself away for hours to pray and write.  The porter took us to the chapel and left us, and we were able to stay there for nearly an hour.

22 Sept 2007: The private chapel of the Archbishop of Krakow
where Karol Wojtyla had been ordained priest

A photo of John Paul II returning to the private chapel as Pope

It was a gloriously sunny day in Krakow, and we enjoyed visits to many beautiful and historic places, as well as basking in the wonderful atmosphere of being in such a beautiful city.

Ali in front of St Mary's basilica

The main square with St Mary's basilica